Big Bend NP, TX (Window, Santa Elena and more)

[Bluegreen kayak]

Big Bend was very enjoyable, even if it's no Death Valley. There are plenty of educational turn-outs along the roads and the trails were well-marked and easy to follow. I didn't find a lot of solitude, but then I didn't tackle any of the long trails either. Coming in from the north through Persimmon Gap, my first stop was the terrific fossil bone exhibit. Since Texas was part of the inland sea followed by pre-historic swamps, the park has its share of sedimentary rocks and preserved bones. After checking conditions at the main visitor center, Panther Junction, I headed to the Chisos Basin, a collection of mountainous features roughly in the center of the park, and very popular with tourists. The basin was formed by lava flows from nearby volcanoes, and with its higher elevation, has altogether different plants and trees than you find on the desert floor. Lots of pine trees.

[img]Casa Grande through trees by Patricia Boylan, on Flickr[/img]

The cacti were blooming all over the place, in a variety of colors. It was like a Big Bend version of super bloom.

[img]Claret Cup cactus in bloom by Patricia Boylan, on Flickr[/img]

Though it was late in the afternoon, I ended up on the 5 1/2 mile total, out and back, Window trail. The Window is fascinating; all the water that comes into the basin flows out this single narrow exit, down by the west edge. The trail started steeply down the high desert landscape, leveled out, and then descended again down slippery rock slides, sometimes aided by steps.

[img]Window trail stairs by Patricia Boylan, on Flickr[/img]

Luckily for me there was no water flowing that day. The Window itself was so smooth, slippery, and precipitous that I could not get too near it. Heck, I couldn't even watch when other folks approached it.

[img]The Window's edge by Patricia Boylan, on Flickr[/img]

[img]The Window's Edge 2 by Patricia Boylan, on Flickr[/img]

Finished that and drove off to my campsite in Rio Grande Village, on the eastern edge of the park. Very nice campground, with the river nearby. There were bugs around, but not like mosquitoes that are after you. All they wanted was to be near my light, so I put my brightest lantern at the other end of the picnic table and drew them off. A group of javelinas came wandering through a couple of times but didn't cause me trouble; it probably helped that the dog in the next site barked at them til they left.

Next morning I packed up and headed to the west end of the park for that night's campground. On the way, besides stopping at lots of information signs, I took the very short trail (1 mile round trip) to the bottom of the Burro Mesa Pour-off, which is Big Bend's word for what we would call a dryfall.

[img]Burro Pour-off trail by Patricia Boylan, on Flickr[/img]

Love those colored rock layers!  The pour-off is about 60 feet, polished rhyolite, and impressive.

[img]Burro Mesa pour-off by Patricia Boylan, on Flickr[/img]

Funny incident - there is a trail that I took later that leads to the top of the pour-off. Evidently someone was up there while I was at the bottom, as a stick came flying over and down. I called "Careful up there!" and a voice came back "Sorry!"

Another short stroll that afternoon was Tuff Canyon, named for the material forming it. It differs from other Big Bend canyons in having sides that are straighter, since volcanic tuff erodes but  keeps its vertical integrity. At least, that's what I remember the sign saying. There were more flowering cactus plants along the descent to the canyon floor:

[img]Tuff Cyn purple flowers by Patricia Boylan, on Flickr[/img]

[img]Tuff Cyn orange flowers by Patricia Boylan, on Flickr[/img]

Here's a view of Tuff Canyon from the overlook, and another of the end of the narrow portion of the canyon.

[img]Tuff Canyon trail by Patricia Boylan, on Flickr[/img]

[img]Tuff Canyon trail end by Patricia Boylan, on Flickr[/img]

I explored a short side canyon and a cave-like opening further on.  The cave had this really strange-looking rock in it, definitely like something out of a science fiction or fantasy movie. I touched it nervously but nothing happened, as far as I know.

[img]Mystery rock Tuff Canyon by Patricia Boylan, on Flickr[/img]

Later that day, I went up Santa Elena Canyon. I drove by it earlier around lunchtime, but the parking lot was full and there were cars parked up the sides of the road. When I returned at suppertime, there were only a few cars in the lot, and I got a spot right at the trailhead. This is one of the big three river canyons at Big Bend; the other two are Boquillas and Mariscal. Santa Elena has a beautiful wineglass shape, just missing an alluvial fan for a base.

[img]Santa Elena wineglass by Patricia Boylan, on Flickr[/img]

After crossing over a high rock ridge, the trail goes alongside the Rio Grande about a mile, until the river takes over the whole canyon. Then it depends on how high the water is and how prepared you are to wade or swim. I waded further up until my bare feet complained, but lots of people went deeper in. The temperature that day had hit 100 degrees and the water felt great. It was also clearer than normal, as I could see my feet. Apparently it's usually muddier. The sun was bright and the effect was multiplied by light overcast clouds, so it was hard to get any decent pictures - sorry! These are two of the better ones; first one west up the canyon and the other east looking back out. Guidebook says the walls are about 1500 feet high.

[img]St El trail 1 by Patricia Boylan, on Flickr[/img]

[img]St El trail 2 by Patricia Boylan, on Flickr[/img]

Stayed in Cottonwood campground that night. It's a bit more primitive and smaller and so very quiet, although I did hear a horse walking through during the night. Couldn't tell if it was being ridden or just wandering on its own. Next report will finish the second half of this visit. This closes with Rainbow cactus flowers.

[img]Panther Junction flowers by Patricia Boylan, on Flickr[/img]

[GowerGulch42]

Wow! That's a long ways from anywhere, glad you checked it out! I'd love to get there some day.

[netllama]

That looks amazing. I've wanted to get out there for a long time, but its a super long drive from the west coast. Thanks for sharing some great photos too!

How did you get there? Did you drive from home, or fly out?

[ski3pin]

Very nice, thank you!

[MojaveGeek]

Enjoyed the pix and narrative, thanks! I've never been to BB. I'd love to check it out, but it's a long trip. Google says like 6 hrs from San Antonio? Looks like quite a bit of water and also variety there?

[Bluegreen kayak]

Yes, I drove out. From Omaha it's eighteen hours, so I stayed in a hotel overnight. Visiting friends and family in San Antonio and Pflugerville on the return trip broke it up into very manageable drives.  Lots to see and do in San Antonio - we used to live there.

Big Bend does have a lot of variety, and history, and geology. The Rio Grande was great for cooling off on the hot days. Funny thing was the nights got down in the 40s; I was digging out my sweaters and sleep socks at 2 am. 

Thanks for the kind words!

[TacoLand]

Javelinas, pour-offs, the Rio Grande! Oh my!

I love Big Bend NP. Great photos and thanks for sharing your experience with us. I've only had the opportunity to do two day trips there in the past, but it was well worth the effort of visiting the area (once was when I lived in New York, the other time when I was in West Texas).