Arches NP: Primitive Loop Trail

[Bluegreen kayak]

Following my fun day at Tower Arch, I decided to tackle the Primitive Loop Trail up by Landscape Arch.There were warnings in all the literature about how difficult this trail is. It's not marked, there are lots of false leads, and some of the sections are daunting to average hikers. There's a real danger of getting lost, but I had a plan. I started very early, before 7 am, and whenever I wasn't sure where the trail went or if I was even still on it, I would take a water/snack break until someone else showed up.  This I did three times; once other hikers came up going counter-clockwise (I was going clockwise) and confirmed the direction for me, and twice other folks came along who either knew the route or could help scout it out.

It was a splendid hike with lots of challenges; the trailhead is the parking lot for Landscape Arch. Landscape looks so stretched out and fragile, I'm amazed it's still up there. There is a sign about a piece of it falling off back in 1991 IIRC. The folks underneath were lucky not to get hit, and the trail now ends a good ways before the arch.



Most folks turn around here, but a few will continue on the first part of the primitive trail to see some additional arches. There's signage in case you forgot what you're doing:



And it starts like this:



On the way, I could see Partition Arch (has a small column in the middle) and some folks eating breakfast below it. Couldn't figure out how they got there, but I soon learned how.



First half of the trail had a lot of walking on fins, sometimes high and exposed. On one such fin, I was in the midst of a family and a couple of friends, and strong gusts of wind were hitting us. I took my hat off in time, but three others were blown into the cleft below. Amazingly, the dad was able to climb down there at the end of the fin, and retrieved two of the hats. Um, I wasn't taking any pictures on that part; too busy trying to stay upright and get to the end.



At some point, we came to the side trails for the other arches. There was Navajo Arch; I liked it because it felt cozy and approachable. It had very different colors from each side. First, the front:





And the back:



Then there was Partition Arch, this time up close and precipitous. This one made me nervous; I was almost hanging on the trees under it. Smooth rock and a long way down.



Black Arch off in the distance.



And finally, Double O Arch (not to be confused with Double Arch, another one elsewhere in the park), which is where most of the people still on the trail will turn around.



From here you head out into the wilderness, and I wish I had taken more pictures of the trail. I think I was focused on finding my way, but here are a few shots.



Sometimes there were cairns.






And this spot below, which was the most daunting of all for me. I was with a memorable couple right before this; she was from Switzerland, he from South Africa, and they met through rugby. So many interesting people in the parks! Anyway, the trail came up to an enormous boulder, on up the side of it, but then where? It was kind of like a T-intersection, so we checked out both sides. Right looked nice, went down into some shade, but quickly turned into a mini-box canyon dead end. Left, which we had written off, was a switchback across the back of the boulder, sloped instead of level, with a deep drop off.

None of us could believe this was the trail; what helped us out was just then a group of hikers came up from the other side. They were doing the counter-clockwise route, so this had to be it. I took this picture right before I walked across, saying that my son would never believe I had done this.



That I made it at all, I attribute to the previous scrambling at Yant Flat, Red Reef, and Tower Arch, and I am so grateful that couple stayed to ensure I made it to safety.

After that, I don't remember anything remarkable about the trail, just in and out of washes and up and down ridges. It got very warm near the end, making me extra glad I had started so early.

Couple other observations about Arches - the campground at Devil's Garden was nice, but there were these bitey little flies occasionally that surprised me, since I've never experienced them in Death Valley. Just a minor nuisance. East of the park is the Colorado River and Highway 128, which has a bunch of BLM campgrounds along it, mostly FCFS. I also hiked a bit of Grandstaff Canyon off that highway, which follows a creek, was full of trees and shade, but left me with a number of itchy bug bites. Might do that again but I'll use some repellent for sure.

Then it was time to go home and get ready for the next adventure - three weeks with the grandchildren at my house. Not posting those pictures however! Hope everyone is off having a great time outdoors.