Alvord Desert, March 2020

[GowerGulch42]

Haven't really shared many of my extensive Oregon journeys with this crowd, but here goes a favorite from last year. 

It was the first week of March, 2020. Four days after an amazingly successful concert with renowned composer Eric Whitacre and 2 days before my playing with the university Big Band for the first time on bari sax (that was a whole adventure in itself…). As part of the field trip for the Basin Analysis class I was in (one of the last classes I took as an Undergrad) we went to one of the most spectacular basins in Oregon: The Alvord Desert. 

Steens Mountain is somewhat of a topographic anomaly. A gently sloping west flank rises from the high desert and abruptly drops from 9,700 feet to 4,000 feet to a playa 20 miles long and 7 miles wide - bigger than any in Death Valley. It's about an 8 hour drive there from Portland, and after making several geology stops along the way we arrived at Alvord Hot Springs after dark. Alvord Hot Springs is a lovely family-run hot springs resort largely devoid of the hippies and hot-springs-enthusiasts that you often find at other springs in Oregon.

View the whole album here: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmTvEnFe

Just outside of Crane, OR:

Route 78 by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr

ODOT Front-end loader by the gravel pile and the only street light for an hour and a half each way on the highway - the loneliest road in Oregon.

Folly Farm Valley by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr

Like most of the great valleys of the Great Basin, Alvord is renowned for longitudinal winds whipping across the flats. Dawn revealed dust clouds which persisted all day.

Morning dust storm by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


Morning at Alvord by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr

The Alvord Desert Road is renowned for giant washboards and blowouts. We did not escape unscathed.

Drive carefully! by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


Geology camp by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr

The wind piled dust clouds against the distant peak of Mickey Butte.

North to Mickey Butte by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr

A short ways north of the springs, Pike Creek is a popular hike which sees a few visitors a month. It's a spectacular canyon with mining history and interesting geology. We had a short discussion at the mouth of the creek, which was clear and freezing cold, and enjoyed the silence before moving up the canyon.

Mouth of Pike Creek by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


Widescreen by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


Across Miranda Flat by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


Heading up Pike Creek by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr

The canyons on the east side of Steens are unlike anything I've seen in Death Valley, though this area experiences far longer and colder winters. The west side of Steens Mountain is carved with deep glacial valleys.

Canyon walls by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


Big Country by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


Tiny double window by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr

Much of the north end of Alvord Playa was flooded, common for this time of year.

Playa by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr

There's a mining road up much of Pike Creek dating from Uranium prospecting in the 1950s.

Face of Steens comes in to view by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


Upper Pike Creek opens up into an amphitheater by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr

A few of us hiked up canyon to the main fork before returning to join the group.
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Turn around point by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


Palisades by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


From upper Pike Creek down by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr

There's a number of uranium prospects in Pike Creek. Many of the entrances have been closed or collapsed naturally, but a small cabin and one adit remain. There's a ~50 foot shaft at the end surrounded by slippery mud. 

I was particularly excited to see fault features inside the tunnel. It partly cuts through glassy rhyolite with cool colors. I think most of the yellow is mold or algae rather than uranium minerals. It could be some kind of salt but I'm not positive.


Yellow and white gunk. Could be mold/algae by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


Fault plane in mineshaft by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr (The vertical lines show the direction of motion on the fault, called slickensides. Beautiful fault breccia on top)

The clouds dropped rapidly as we left Pike Creek.

Weather incoming by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr

We headed south to the Pueblo Mountains to study some of the oldest rock in Oregon - a Jurassic-age blueschist. It snowed for about 30 minutes while we talked and looked at the rock (perhaps it more resembled graupel than snow). We were spitting distance from the Nevada border at this point.

Jurassic age Blueschist in Pueblo Mountains by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


The clouds parted on our way back to Alvord producing some of the most captivating light I've ever seen. This picture shows the southern flank of Steens Mountain. Straight ahead is the hamlet of Fields Station, just three or four buildings, and above it is the glacier-carved Wildhorse Gorge. The Alvord Desert is on the other side of the small rise to the right. 

Evening light by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr

Crossing back down to Alvord.

Alvord Desert by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


Long shadows by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr

We returned with enough sunlight left to study the source springs of Alvord Hot Springs. Water is piped from here and mixed with cooler water in the little shed seen earlier. The source water is a scalding 171˚F in spots!

Post-storm clouds by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr

A terrific sunset preceded a well-earned rest.


Evening tents by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


Crepuscular Rays by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


Glowing onto snow by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


DSC_0461 by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr

Dawn broke on our final morning, a chilly 13˚F. 

Sunrise tents by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


Dawn at the spring by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr

On our way home, we drove several miles out onto the dry part of the playa. The drama of Steens towering over the flat, empty Alvord Desert and high desert beyond was enchanting. You can see the hot springs development in some photos.


Steens from playa by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr

I don't recall that distant peak, but it is in Nevada. [EDIT: it is Black Mountain, a full 40 miles to the south.]

Isolated by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


Sitting by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr


Flat. Empty. by Andrew Dunning, on Flickr

In the time since this wonderful trip, the world changed. Alvord Desert and the lonesome cattle ranchers that call it home have not, and I hope to return this spring.

If you haven't spent any time in eastern Oregon, you're missing out on some of the most beautiful and least-traveled parts of this country.

[jesportland]

It's been years since we've been there. Perhaps this year, but no tent camping! R Pod for us! We do drive by from afar on 95 to DV several times a year.

Nice pictures, cold times.

[ski3pin]

Well done, Andrew and continued success with your learning. We enjoyed seeing this familiar area through your eyes.

[netllama]

Thanks for sharing some lovely photos of an obscure corner of the West.

I drove through the Alvord Desert last July (when it was well over 100F), and regretted not having more time to explore the region.

[Sparky of SoCal]

Since moving to Oregon the Great Basin Desert has become one of my main exploration areas. It reminds me of the Mojave and DV areas in the 70’s and 80’s as far as the amount of people. Am planning another trip there soon as I am learning that living on the Oregon Coast is a Fog Belt Rain Forrest [real thing] camping in my local mountains is a pain in the butt.

[GowerGulch42]

Oh you must be down south near Port Orford then! Oregon's Big Sur?

I've spent quite a bit of time there, but more importantly inland near Summer Lake. Love the Oregon Great Basin. Warner Valley near Plush is also a must-go.

[Sparky of SoCal]

Oh you must be down south near Port Orford then! Oregon's Big Sur?

I've spent quite a bit of time there, but more importantly inland near Summer Lake. Love the Oregon Great Basin. Warner Valley near Plush is also a must-go.

I'm in Garabaldi. The fog follows up the river valleys out of the Bay. The land surface is so full of ferns, leaves and vines I have no idea what a rock looks like until I get to a waterway.

[GowerGulch42]

Garibaldi is my favorite town on the coast. Been visiting since I was a kid. Actually passing through tomorrow…

[TacoLand]

Great stuff here, thanks for sharing. Only had a chance to visit the area once but can't wait to get back.

Camped at the Summer Lake Hot Springs once ... might be a little too crunchy for some with the hot spring barn & string lights, but damn if that wasn't a nice change of pace from sitting in a hole the size of a bathtub in the middle of the desert getting bit by bugs.

[MojaveGeek]

This is very cool, thanks for posting! I have heard only good things about Alvord and would enjoy getting there some day! At least you've helped me see it anyway